I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. Because the Contrast paints are transparent they are affected by the warmth of the primer underneath and they need a bright primer like white or these two, they will not work on a pure black primer. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Therefore, my conscience demands that I mention that I get a tiny pittance if you click on the Amazon product links and purchase something through them. #ParentPlayers – Resources for UK Wargamers with Primary School Kids at Home! In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level. ... Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. They each have a main goal in mind, I think, and are designed to be used out of the pot for that. I’m sure you’ve guessed the answer: I’ll have to test on more Dwarf Brewers. 'Free Your Models - Contrast' paint range -- In stores June 15th, color charts and video pg. Running just slightly over gives you some lovely recess shading with minimal work, but just requires a light touch. On the flip side, the edges aren’t as effectively highlighted, because the darker grey isn’t as high a contrast in tone with the recesses. The experienced have access to more powerful techniques (blending, layering, etc.) I tested with more tan-zenithaled Dwarf Brewers. Paints being applied over primer all react a bit different. Always try the colour out before using it in anger or you can be very disappointed. Thinning with water – this is a major no no, and the contrast paints won’t flow right at all. In my prior miniature-painting post, I said that my collection of contrast paints lacked lighter blues and purples. Next, the choice of colour will make a massive difference, and can deal with one of the constant criticisms of contrast paint I hear. Shake the damn pots properly – contrast, more than almost any other paint, separates like mad. -Then spray a thin coat of Gloss varnish, this step is optional but the Contrast paint flows a lot better with it, staining a lot less flat surface. This is the paints and primers you need to do this: A black primer (I use Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer) A light gray paint (I use Vallejo’s Model Air Light Gray) A white paint (I use Vallejo’s Game Air Dead White) An airbrush (similar results can be achieved with spray cans, it is just a lot easier with an airbrush) Contrast simply doesn’t have metallics in the range, and though applying yellow for gold and grey for steel isn’t terrible if you’re in a rush, using the metallic paints to give that genuine sheen can be worth doing. But it isn’t that hard! This doesn’t mean I reject using washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts. I feel this is okay to do, because I have no soul. ... Cover the parts of the model that will end up white in Apothecary White Contrast paint. I even make sure my brush is pretty dry every time I clean it off. The basic method starts with priming the model black. They’re supposed to be easy to use: just slop the paint over white primer and you’re done. If you don’t keep the brush fresh, your accuracy will get hammered quickly. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. #ParentPlayers – the 8th Meet-up, first in 2020! I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. Contrast paints almost entirely rely on recess painting, and despite the marketing about “one thick coat” actually apply incredibly thinly, highlighting all the details on the model. The tests I did with the red glaze were in anticipation of techniques I’d use to paint Volfyirion (in a later post I describe why I dropped this approach). The second main area is your initial assembly. 5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0 The Trench was done with Basilicum Gray contrast paint diluted with Contrast medium about 50/50. The plan here was to give me enough initial contrast so that I could then spray a single base color and still get a nice gradient effect. Zenithal highlighting is another approach to highlighting a model that gives it a completely different look and feel. It could be said that this is a much more realistic approach to highlighting a model. The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually … hide. Plan your contrast paints around the metal going on, and you can often find that you can speed up a lot of your painting as if the metal parts are going to get overpainted carefully, you can slap the other colours on faster around the awkward bits. Zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. But shake the pots up well or you get some bloody odd results. Your email address will not be published. This means that for the majority of the game, you are looking at the miniatures from above. Curious if I should buy both primers to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all wraithbone. 3 comments. a really nice trick can be to use a contrast paint more than once for depth, combining it with dry brushing or edge highlighting with the primer colour first to exaggerate the depth of colour from the recesses to the edges. Applying too much – this normally comes because someones either trying to apply it like agrax with loads on the brush, or because they haven’t checked into how to apply contrast and have taken the “One thick coat” line used when discussing it literally. Can you use a combination of contrast paints and regular acrylics on … There’ll be a follow-up post with more contrast paint examples. 34 First, contrast is a translucent paint that is designed to recede from edges and heavily pigment recesses. Do one arm and check it over before moving onto the next, for example, rather than trying to cover both arms and legs in the same colour before checking it. Zenithal Contrast Paint. When you are playing a board game, chances are you are sitting at a table. Well, it was worth it just to see how it would fair over straight zenithal priming. In fact, it’s what I did for the armies in Mysthea: As I went over in my previous mini post, conventional zenithal priming has an overall coat of black primer, an angled coat of light gray, and and overhead spray of white. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Using a spray can or airbrush with a bright color, usually white, you spray directly downward onto a dark-colored model. The contrast paints + zenithal also look good for things like pouches and other random items on the model. Contrast paints are a pain to clean up on your model, so you need pretty tidy brush work to get the most out of them. I rather like that. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. 1. Since I planned to paint Volfyirion as a fire dragon, I explored a different zenithal scheme. Close. Contrast paints use a range of different pigments in a different medium that are designed to separate out, with the darker pigment being drawn into the slower drying recesses as the liquid contracts. My accuracy stays far higher than doing base coats normally, as I get bored and slop it on when I don’t get that instant result. Well, I are one. Miniature Painting Painting Tutorial Mini Paintings Warhammer 40k Miniatures Model Paint Warhammer Paint Wargaming Figure Painting Funny School Pictures. My final tip for application involved brushes. Third …. Grey Seer – lovely vibrant colours again, but the cooler tone can leave flesh tones seeming a little more cadaverous, which is perfect for things like admech. Mechanicus Grey/Halfords Grey – muted colours, and the highlights aren’t as crisp, but we’re right in the colour tone for standard painting over black undercoats now. I used glaze medium instead of water because I didn’t want to thin the Vallejo Air paint any further, since it was already thinned for airbrushing. Brilliant! New post: My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: Contrast Paints â Maximised! Leadbelcher – now we’re talking amazing coloured metals, with a metallic sheen thing through the translucent paints. Do I use a varnish with a satin finish or one with a gloss finish? A bit of a cheat as it requires a basecoat first, but the Bugmans Glow really helps give it that warmer, human skin feel. I’ve ordered some more contrast paints, and Dwarf Brewers to test them on (of course!). After priming the model (Son on Onimos, Rackham) i do start painting the base colours up to the model, already thinking myself into the light situation (zenithal) and bring the areas affected by light up to the model with a brighter tone. Understand your paints before you apply them. Miniatures painted with glazes over zenithal priming have good contrast within each area, but can lack contrast between each of the areas. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. If you use a dark contrast paint, drybrush it with the primer, then go over it with a lighter colour, you can really get some brilliant effects like light green edges over shaded black models, an amazing effect on Drukhari, for example. With the contrast paints, even the newest painter should be able to get a nicely painted group of minis on the table without that mountain of stress. I find breaking the application down to smaller sections helps me get better coverage and deal with any issues before moving on to the next. This can be amazingly effective, and can also combine colours really well. Has anyone tried zenithal priming with grey seer and wraithbone? The first main area for me is metallics (assuming you haven’t done a metallic primer, of course!). It’s really what its designed to do on the models, so its no surprise. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. If you click on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you’ll see how elaborate their minis are. If you’re wondering what that last phrase means, compare this image with unpainted minis to this image with painted ones. There are light blues that seem too light and washed out but work brilliantly for tau skin, and magos purple seems designed for Genestealer Cultist flesh tones, not a deep purple. Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! -Start by priming the whole model with light grey (i mix stynylrez grey and white 35/65) -Do a Zenithal from the top and side with pure white. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. I have used Zenithal priming with some success, I think the 2 step rather than the 3 step process is fine as you have illustrated. This is, I believe, by design. An initial fleshshade gloss wash (or agrax gloss) with a light gold or silver drybrush really takes this up a whole other level for effectiveness. Your email address will not be published. So, what was the point of using a contrast paint? Hopefully this gives you a bit of an idea on using contrasts in simple, effective ways to speed up your painting, look effective in different ranges, and look at ways to take it forward too! For the inexperienced, they’re supposed to give the visceral thrill of quickly painting a mini. And that includes your mould lines, stubs from sprue cuts, and everything else. This definitely doesn’t come across in the photos: The darker contrast paint colors have a sheen to them that makes the surfaces seem almost metallic; the Wyldwood mini looks like it was made of bronze. I'll definitely give these suggestions a go though. Zenithal priming miniatures, also called pre-shading, is a method of adding shadow and highlight to a model before painting it. Darker contrast paints cover light ones really well!! From my perspective, there are two main areas you need to look at to get the most from contrast paints by themselves, and then you can also look at moving beyond contrast paints by adding a little something extra with other paint techniques after contrast too. I find contrast paints really nice to work with. Synopsis: The painter (who is far more experienced than I am) spent a long time painting one of the figures in detail (the mini on the right in the video’s preview image). Hair was diluted Gryph Charger gray (this has a green/blue tint but made it stand out a little from the skin). Enjoy. For me, applying paint quickly and neatly enough is fun, and because I see the model come to life without the “this looks terrible stages of base coats and highlights”, it maintains my interest painting the same colour over larger numbers of models. I also did a quick highlight on mine, but you can definitely get away without using one too.” But you don’t have to use Wraithbone. I saw the videos and I was intrigued. An initial wash of nuln oil can add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the crisp highlights. So I've been playing about with the new Contrast Paints from Games Workshop and I wanted to see if I could get something done for gaming really quickly. Again, careful planning reduces the clean up. However, see my discussion of contrast medium below. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Going back to Etherfields, I found a video of someone painting Etherfields miniatures. Brilliant! But although wash-over-glaze is a perfectly valid technique, I wanted to see what I could do with just the Sundrop approach: wash-over-zenithal. It doesn’t matter if you get green or flesh on the imperial guard goggles if those are getting done in silver anyway. share. Having said that … I think there are a lot of painters like me, who wouldn’t class themselves as top end painters, but are struggling to get the most of out Contrast. Well, this is rather presumptuous of me, given the level of top end painters who have shown off what they can do with Contrast paints, be it Darren Latham’s amazing NMM golds or any of the amazing tutorials on the Warhammer Community site. If done properly, the zenithal highlighting technique produces a high-contrast miniature with almost no work. Not cleaning the brush enough – contrast can dry quite quickly, and is thinner than the paint many of use, though we probably should be thinning it more there ð Its important to clean the brush often or the paint can be sucked up and dry at the base of the brush, especially as contrast can dry deceptively fast compared to a wash. Cracking! Interestingly, I find Contrast works better for me with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine. Don’t skip over this step and be very mindful of what you choose. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. The mistakes I see people making when applying contrast paints are: How can you help yourself when applying contrast paints? Wraithbone – awesome vibrant colours with a warm hint. Add a few details in over the top of bigger contrast areas, like buckles or buttons with normal paints. That means if you structure your painting from light paints to dark, being increasingly careful, you can really minimise any need to do any cleanup at all. Even zenithal priming doesn't really work with contrast. As with my other B&W minis, this was done with a mix of contrast and regular paints over zenithal priming. Once dried, a lighter color like gray or white is added from the top, or zenith. Something you could probably achieve with the white and black Contrast paints. I didn’t expect much of an effect of Apothecary White over the gray zenithal. Let’s compare the “gray zenithal” with the “tan zenithal”: To test the assertion that warm colors would look better over a brown-ish base, I airbrushed both minis with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Air Red with Vallejo Glaze Medium. If you get a grainy undercoat, the contrast paint will lock between the grains and you won’t get any sort of decent shade at all, regardless of the colour. 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